We http://uristocrat.com/category/uristocrat/page/882/ a couple of weeks ago about the relaunch of Evisu and the addition of Scott Morrison, the co-founder of both Paper Denim & Cloth and Earnest Sewn, to the Evisu team as CEO and creative Director. We now have more news about the direction of the popular Japanese vintage denim brand. The relaunch of Evisu focuses on the forgotten roots of the brand and will emphasize quality, craftsmanship and authenticity that made the brand very popular in the late 90s.
There will be three collections for men and women with each pair of jean being unique. The collections will be Evisu Genes ($150 to $198), Evisu ($198 to $265), and a
Private Stock collection ($600-$700). The Private stock collection will consist of Replica quality, one-of-a-kind pieces, hand painted logo and numbered. For this line craftsmen use various techniques to create unique detailing (e.g. burns using cigarette lighters, hand painted buttons etc.)
The Cleaner construction of the relaunch items will contrast with the look of distressed hand painted logos that were a core vision of Evisu’s creator Hidehiko Yamane.
Coinciding with the relaunch will be the availability of the Tateoti book which emphasizes the “Each Pair Tells a Unique Story” mantra. The Tateoti book is “the bible of Evisu brand and its histroy with archive images of Evisu jeans from raw to the worn state tracking the evolving nature of each unique pair.
Evisu’s new collection will be available exclusively at Barneys in November 09 – And starting in January at Fred Segal.
– In 1980s, vintage denim was sought by collectors around the world. Especially in Japan, vintage denim enthusiasts, or “otakus”, obsessively searched for methods to produce an exact replica of vintage jeans down to the minute details.
– In 1988, Evisu’s founder Hidehiko Yamane, a trained tailor, managed to find and buy a 1950s American shuttle loom capable of weaving 40 meters per day and produced exact replicas of vintage jeans. His production of only 12 garments per week, started the “Replica Movement”.
Evisu as a brand is tied to origins of denim in many fascinating ways beyond the meticulous attention to quality and detail.
– In Japanese Levis is pronounced “Levisu”. Evisu was originally known as Evis jeans, after the Japanese god of prosperity, and later became “Evisu”.
– The hand painted Evisu logo has its roots in vintage jeans as well. In 1944 (during World War II), the US Government banned the use of non-essential materials that could be better utilized in war efforts, and as a result this was the only year that Levi’s screen printed the arcuate logo on the back pocket of its jeans. Over years these printed arcuates became distressed, chipped and faded, and this Levi’s 501 from 1944 became the most valuable and collectible jean.
– That influenced Hidehiko Yamane to hand-paint the logo on the back pocket of its jeans – which like the most valuable vintage jeans would get chipped and distressed over time. The logo inspired by the American Eagle and the Levis arcuate is synonymous with the Evisu brand today.
Best Quality Denim & Unique Process
Besides using the best Selvedge denim in the world, Evisu jeans go through a “dry” and “wet” process” that gives each pair its unique look and can take upto one week for a pair to be finally ready.
· The dry process is completed by hand: The uniqueness of each garment is created during the dry process as a craftsman hand-sands one piece at a time on an apparatus called a “Sanding Tandem” and uses hand applied scrapping tools to create vintage effects, forgoing molds or more conventional methods.
· Wet process is completed in washing machines. Resin, color treatments and other liquids are applied. The jeans are then put into a bath with an enzyme or stone wash giving each pair its unique look and feel.