The Procell x Nike Total 90 III "Heirloom" (style code IQ5794-237) released in-store at Procell's 5 Delancey Street shop on May 16 and drops on Nike SNKRS US on May 28, expanding the Bowery vintage store's first official Nike collaboration to a global audience. The pair takes Nike's 2004 Total 90 III football silhouette — a firm-ground boot largely forgotten outside soccer-history corners — and dresses it in a glossy plaid-and-bouclé upper sealed under a clear plastic finish.
The "Heirloom" concept
Brian Procell built the pair around the plastic couch covers that were standard issue in working-class apartments through the 1970s and '80s — the kind grandparents bought to "save the good furniture" and never took off. The upper layers a mustard, beige, and green plaid against a bouclé-textured midfoot, then wraps the whole thing in a clear vinyl-look overlay. The heel and collar pick up Baroque Brown leather; a small "Don't Remove" tag on the tongue completes the gag. You don't need a press release to read this pair — every panel says what it is.
The Total 90 III is the right canvas
Nike's Total 90 III released in 2004 as a firm-ground football boot and lived a quiet life until the larger T90 archive revival began about three years ago. It has a chunky-but-restrained midsole, a flat profile, and broad upper panels — closer to a German sprint trainer than a basketball shoe — which is exactly the shape that gives Procell room to layer pattern on pattern without the shoe collapsing into noise. The same project on a Dunk or an Air Force 1 would have read as costume. On a T90, it reads as design.
Procell's second Nike turn
This is Procell's second collaboration with Nike. The first, a two-piece pack of Air Force 1 and Blazer Lows under the "Wildcard" theme, dropped in 2019 at $110 retail and remains a sought-after pair on the secondary market. Brian Procell built the Bowery shop into a fixture of New York's vintage and editorial circuit over the last decade — its rotating window installations cycle through Instagram weekly, and the shop's archive dresses campaigns for most of the brands that drive playoff-tunnel fashion. That this collab landed on a niche football silhouette rather than a hype model is the tell: Procell isn't chasing the resale market, he's making a piece of furniture you wear.
Retail is $125. The in-store release at 5 Delancey was the limited first wave on May 16; SNKRS access on May 28 is the broader rollout for buyers outside New York.
Comments